A Walk In ThoughtGraeme Cooper FINS Founder of The Internationa Guild of Battlefield Guides
When walking a certain battle site in Belgium you will notice that something monumental is absent. On the 18th June 1815, over rolling countryside between two ridges 11 miles south of Brussels, the entire course of European history changed. On the Battlefield at Waterloo, the tactical skill and staying power of The Duke of Wellington opposed Napoleon Bonaparte's brilliance, in an effort to decide the providence of Europe. The culmination of one of the greatest gambles in military history, spectacular by any criterion, saw the rout of an Empire and the complete eclipse of a charismatic Corsican and greatest soldier of modern time. It happened on one of the smallest battlefields in Europe and all on a Sunday afternoon. If you have never been to Waterloo, or indeed to any battlefield before, then I trust this article might entice you to do so. These snippets from 1815 are in no chronological order. The phased sequence of the Waterloo battle is omitted and left for discovery. Battlefield Touring Three ingredients are essential to all such quests into history. The initial one is the terrain, the very ground 'where it happened'. Where 'the Lancashire Fusiliers hid in the sunken road prior to their attack on the 1st July 1916, the first day of the Somme' or where 'that tiny gap, barely 350 yards wide, where Henry did his bit at Agincourt' are examples of such intriguing locations that entice you to tour. Whether it is to Omaha Beach, Ramillies or Belle Isle, the excitement and anticipation of seeing those places for the first time is, for most visitors, a memorable and unique experience. Comments like 'So that's where the windmill was' or 'my… that right flank is far bigger than I had ever imagined' will no doubt reminisce with some. The ground is the key. It does not lie. Whilst history is manmade the terrain you see, primarily is not. The ground can dispel the myths and prove the truths. Viewing the ground, coupled with the second and absolutely fundamental factor necessary for successful battlefield touring, provides enjoyment, intrigue and understanding. I refer of course to the need for a story teller. The guide who creates the atmosphere generates the interest. By relating to history they believe is true, they can, with appropriate 'cordite' and emotion, bring you there. Hence the saying, 'a tour is as only as good as the guide who leads it'. It is the guide who is responsible for firing the best aid you have… your imagination. So important is this third factor, and in conjunction with the former, it helps to, as the phrase has often been coined, 'bring history to life'. This Article refers by numbers to locations and incidents on the field at Waterloo. Museum it early The first place to visit in Waterloo is the Wellington Museum, which was the Duke's Headquarters during the battle. In those days battles were named after the location of the Headquarters of the victor. The museum, with its many artefacts, paintings and chronological displays gives you an overview as to what happened there in June 1815. Wellington's bedroom still contains his bed where his ADC Gordon died. Many other officers on Wellington's Staff suffered a similar fate. It is said that de Lancey, his Quartermaster General, died from a cannon ball that never touched him! It passed so close to his backbone that the following vacuum ripped the muscles from his upper spine, destroying his respiratory function. The Museum extension presents an easy to follow brief as to the situation in Europe in 1815 and an insight as to what was taking place at the all important Congress of Vienna. This 'must visit location' will interest you for at least an hour, and more if lady visitors get their way! Four kilometres south of Waterloo, the gigantic Lion Mound looms into view at Mont St Jean. The very second you see it an inquisitive sense of exhilaration engulfs you as you are aware it marks the most famous and talked about battlefield in history. Circular Imagination Those Steps Car parks, Roundabouts and an Underground Museum Sitting on the southern side of the terrace that surrounds the 28–ton Lion (monument to the wounded Prince of Orange), you can look northeast towards the farm at Mont St Jean, which on the day had become a hospital. Alongside it you can pick out the Charleroi road which, cobbled in 1815, saw the constant flow of the deserters and wounded moving northwards to an even bigger hospital in Brussels. This highway, along which the Irish–born Wellington had been unsure whether Napoleon's main axis would advance, was also the site of the Allied wagon train. It was here that many of the thousands that deserted Wellington on the day plundered from their own provisions. Now look to the eastern horizon in the direction of Wavre. Although out of sight and 10 miles distant over the now virtually non–existent Bois de Paris, you may wonder what the 3rd Prussian Corps' Chief of Staff would have been thinking. Others wrote of his teachings of which you might be aware. He was of course the great military theorist; Von Clausewitz. A scan of the battlefield below and you can locate the French (strength: 72,000 + 246 cannon) and Allied (strength: 68,000 + 156 cannon) dispositions and spy the wood, which now contains the ruins of Chateau Frischermont. You can also see the defile running northwest beyond Hougoumont Farm, which presented dead ground to the Duke and where, as has been proved by metal detection and x–ray photography, the intensity of battle was highest. Your imagination then starts to grip as you become aware of what actually happened on that Sunday in 1815. You can also locate the Grand Battery Ridge and if the imagination is really keen, you will no doubt sense the cannon thunder and flashes of Napoleon's 12–pounder 'Beautiful Daughters'. As reported by the Dover Gazette, these uns were heard on the English South coast seafront that day, across the Channel and some 140 ogdd miles away. Napoleonville Stroll South and below the ridge, La Haie Sainte farm was at the centre of the Allied line. Viewing the farmhouse from the sandpit (4) where two companies of the 95th defended the eastern side of the farm, you are reminded of Ensign Frank who, having to hide under a bed in the attic during the French onslaught, witnessed two of his wounded comrades being bayoneted to death. Also the view of the pigsty roof, from where Baring's men heaved roof tiles at the invaders, and that of the eastern gate hacked down by Lieutenant Vaux, the tallest sapper in the French army, are virtually as they were in 1815. Baring's 450 men of the King's German Legion had slept in the farm on the night before the battle. They took down the Great Barn doors for firewood unaware that they would have to defend the farm the next day. When the French attacked through the open door, the garrison held the initial assault and during the lull in fighting piled up the enemy dead in the doorway to form a barrier against the next attack. The back door of the main house through which Baring and his remaining 40 men escaped, having run out of ammunition, is also close to the spot where Ompteda was shot from his horse at close range whilst leading the counter attack. Today, and to prevent a multitude of visitors, the Private — No Entry signs protect the property for the owners who are descendants from the same family resident in 1815. Wet Meadow Chance Decision Another Duke In late 1705, it was here that Marlborough had written that if Brussels needed to be defended from the south then the ridge at Mont St Jean was the place to do it. As Wellington read Marlborough whilst in India, you might possibly understand better the Duke's reasons for choosing such ground and his subsequent reference to the position of Waterloo by his supposed utterance, "I have kept it in my pocket." History's suggestion that Wellington had reconnoitred his defensive ridge at Mont St Jean is further supported by Lady Shelley's account of her conversation with the Duke of Richmond some years after that most famous Ball. Wellington had asked him at the Ball to see a map of the area. Richmond subsequently ringed with a pencil the thumbnail mark that Wellington had left on the map. The pencil mark circled the ridge at Mont St Jean. 'The way of the Prussian' Five years ago, I stood at this location (11) and wondered why historians had referred to Blucher's 'obsession with Plancenoit' as some sort of leadership failure by distraction. He has been accused of concentrating all his forces towards the village with the assumption that it was his hate for, and required destruction of, the French that was his motivation. After two attacks the Prussians then encircled the village and forced the Young Guard to retire. Back in 1999 at this high point, and by studying the ground, I pondered this entire historical assumption in a manner that a battlefield guide would, as opposed to that of a military historian author. My imagination endeavoured to relive the situation as seen through the eyes of one of Bulow's Officers on horseback. Fortuitously, to my left, and saddle high, stood a farmer's compost heap, onto which I, to my later regret, clambered. Knowing already that his leading Prussians are already outflanking the Grand Battery, through his telescope, one of Major General Hake's Landwehr Officers would have observed the Plancenoit Spire. What became clear through my binoculars was that the Prussian officer's eyes would fall not only upon the village of Plancenoit but also, and more importantly, upon Rossomme and the Charleroi road. Of course, it was on this road that Napoleon's administration, support and commissariat were assembled. Thereby, it can be assumed that upon this sight the Prussians glimpsed a winning prize; the chance to surprise and seize the French rear. Only then can one contemplate better the reasons why Prussian cannonballs flew over the French baggage train. Additionally the reason why Blucher's written orders, via Scharnhorst (the courier), to Zieten as he emerged from Chapel Jacques, had demanded the march of the Prussian 1st Corps to Plancenoit. Yes, on this high spot you view almost the entire battlefield and can even imagine those words of Blucher… 'forwarts mein kinder' Battle of La Belle Alliance Le Gros Velo is a small restaurant owned by Catherine and Michael on the Plancenoit village green. The cuisine is really quite superb. However, be patient for a Belgium supper, as it may take longer to appear than Zieten's Corps did to reach Wellington's right…. but it is well worth waiting for! The peaceful setting below the church contrasts immeasurably with that of 191 years ago when Prussian cannon and sheer hatred for the French had sucked in the vast majority of Napoleon's reserve. While waiting for supper, walk around the church and graveyard, the focal point in the village where two battalions of the Old Guard saw off thousands of young inexperienced Prussians. If time permits, manage a visit to the nearby Prussian monument (15). It was here that the first 3 Prussian guns deployed to engage the French, west of the village. The monument's heraldic gold letters testify to the Prussian victory of 'Belle Alliance'. If you are there on a cloudless mid June evening, move 50 meters north to a small prominent concrete block and watch the sun's red ball sink behind the Lion Mound. What a photograph! Heading towards La Belle Alliance and d'Erlon's Corps position you cannot fail to notice how easy it must have been for the Grand Battery to fire over the heads of d'Erlon's advance in echelon. You will appreciate how different the battlefield now seems from the French viewpoint. If you look towards the Lion Mound between Hougoumont and La Haie Sainte, it was here that Marshal Ney (Napoleon's Field Commander) first led 41 Squadrons of cavalry and then 37 more, all without infantry or artillery support. Peer forward to the line where Foy (Commander French 9th Division) had cried when he saw 5,000 horses, the pride of France's cavalry, ride to their peril during that almost surreal moment in warfare, so well depicted by Doumouline in the Panorama. Furthermore, from this standpoint it is also quite possible to see why Ney could not see out of the valley, and Napoleon, when 1800 yards further south at Rossomme, could not see into it. Look 800 yards to your left and see the rise of ground (16) where Kellerman (Commander French 3rd Cavalry Corps) had openly argued against Ney's order. He had done the same at Quatre Bras. Now follow the route of France's last effort, that of the Imperial Guard as it attacked with some cavalry, artillery and tirailleur support towards Wellington's centre. Stand at the spot, just forward and northwest of Belle Alliance, where Napoleon handed over command of the Garde to Ney (17). At this point be aware what concurrent activity was happening while this column of French imperial prestige started its final attack march. The "Battle within the Battle" at Hougoumont was still raging. After seven attacks by Jerome Bonaparte, the Emperor's younger brother, who commanded the largest Division on the day, a third of the French infantry had been committed and mostly destroyed. The "Battle behind the Battle" at Plancenoit was now beginning to sway in favour of the Prussians. Elsewhere, Napoleon's false message of hope of the arrival of Grouchy was beginning to reach his troops; most allied squares had formed into line and a French battery was battering the Dutch and Germans on the north side of the now captured La Haie Sainte farm. With a battle column of over 550 yards long and with a frontage of 60 veteran Garde, this great spectacle, with bands playing, must have been an awesome sight to the Allies who managed to glimpse it through the battle smoke. Walk this final chapter of Napoleonic history and begin to understand why the Garde might have split. By looking in the direction of the Lion Mound, the ground falls away naturally either side. Looking at Wellington's line, the French must have known from earlier combat, that some 450 meters of the sunken road to the immediate west from Wellington's centre would have been impassable, as it was now littered with battle casualties and debris from their own cavalry charges. Stop in the valley some 300 yards short of Mercer's Ridge (1). So confident were they, with their Parade Dress in their backpacks ready for the victory celebrations in Brussels that evening, the Imperial Chasseurs and Grenadiers now started deploying from column as they begin to climb the slope. It was here 3 hours previously that Ney's cuirassiers had probably broken from trot into canter. After gaining the ridge (18) you can imagine the actions of Colborne's 52nd and how the two wings of this massive 1,034 strong unit had wheeled left in two ranks (some say four) under fire, taking 200 casualties, to decimate the left flank of the Chasseurs. Walk along to Mercer's stone and view the position where his artillery pieces had been in front of the Brunswick squares at the time of the cavalry charges. Later, the Duke personally moved these young, inexperienced and frightened Germans to a more central position. Looking down into the valley bottom to the point of origin, again you cannot fail to see why Wellington had chosen this ground to defend. As the French cavalry, through the rye and mud for the first time, had endeavoured to breast the ridge at a full gallop from the valley bottom, there can be no doubt that finding the Allies infantry in squares behind cannon had surprised them. The reverse slope had again concealed the Allied defence. 'Nosey' Wellington's sense and duty of care was best demonstrated by his performance in battle. His practice of deploying his artillery in support of his Infantry and use of the reverse slope and dead ground for protection, are but two examples. By looking along Mercer's Ridge (19) you can imagine both. From the same scene you can also imagine Wellington, as he did on the day, urging Copenhagen, his steed, northwards along the ridge, whilst giving orders on the move to those regiments to form line prior to the attack by the Imperial Guard. When the situation was at its most fearful, Wellington kept his head and did not give way to the pressure of crisis. He had trusted himself, Blucher and his "finest instrument"… British Infantry. It had enabled him to hold the ground of vital importance against Napoleon's artillery and all that came with it. The battle had been between the attacker and the defender. As the latter, Wellington had been patient, very aware and flexible throughout, using his tactical skill and experience to the full. These personal qualities formed the foundation stone of his leadership for this victory, as they had done at Salamanca, Vitoria, Talavera and all his conquests. His bravery in exposing himself proved one admirable aspect of his leadership. Nevertheless, his greatest personal quality was surely that of courage. Had Kipling been beside Wellington at Waterloo during the crisis at 6pm, then one would have been certain from where his inspiration for his famous poem would have come: If you can keep your head when all about you Finally walk the short route to Hougoumont Farm (20). On Napoleon's 'bad day at the office', this is where mission creep went horribly wrong. Instead of drawing the Allied reserve into combat, it achieved the opposite. The story here is most vivid. Unbelievably heroic and horrible scenes of battle with horses and soldiers burning to death, exhaustion of all involved beyond credible endurance, and with leadership, training and camaraderie stretched to the absolute limit… I have seen many a visitor here with tears in their eyes, not just because Chateau Hougoumont is the shrine to the British Guards but equally for the reason that the atmosphere is so heart–rending and unforgettable… if Hougoumont fails to engage one's imagination with history, nowhere else will. Wander slowly back towards the Lion, pausing for the last time at the spot (21) where, leading his brigade forward to protect Maitland's left flank, Halkett had been killed. It was here that the Duke had inferred to Maitland that the time was right for British firepower from the Guards, and thereafter the 95th, the 52nd and the 71st. The resulting crescendo of volley subsequently decimated, first the front and then the eastern flank of the Imperial columns. The Garde had been stopped in its tracks. The world's greatest fighting machine was to turn into a rabble inside 10 minutes. The campaign has cost 115,000 casualties after which Europe saw the rise of Germany, the thrust of Britain into greater empire, the demise of France and the downfall of the most written about soldier in history. Whose Victory? 'Now's the Time?' If we forget our history, we forget our standards, culture, and all that goes with our perception of remembering. When walking Waterloo you will notice that something is absent when that concept is considered. There is no memorial to the British soldier. The Belgians, Dutch, Hanoverians, French and Prussians are all remembered with proud and prominent memorials on the battlefield. Would it not be appropriate to support the placing of a memorial to those British who also served and suffered in that wet meadow in 1815? The absence of a British memorial on the field of conflict has puzzled and exasperated many visitors. After all, elsewhere in Belgium we well remember those fallen in both World Wars. With the Waterloo 200th Anniversary in 2015 approaching and with a sense of duty to remember those Waterloo Men, many of whom paid the ultimate sacrifice, is it not appropriate to consider maintaining such a standard of remembrance? Surely 'Now is the time'. |
![]() Graeme Cooper Qualified member Guild of Battlefield Guides Badge No 7
'First rate. You hit the right notes and bring the group with you in you own enthusiasm for the subject'. I have come back with a very much better appreciation of the whole operation and complexity of preparation of what went on. I am sure that there is a huge amount to study but you have brought much to life and 'fixed' he memory and understanding. Many thanks.
Lyn Evans - Birch Green, Hertford: 'D-Day Normandy Landings' 8-12 September 2011 Testimonials ![]() 'A Walk in Thought' and battlefield map ![]() Latest news on Waterloo
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